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ceiling superEconomica [ArtAttack Style]

Then, we start from the beginning, to a tank as small as the one that I built (30x20x15) I had to find a ceiling small enough, but at the same time powerful.

In market there are many solutions, most of which use PL lamps ... but many of these had as a disadvantage or be too bulky or too expensive.

For this reason I decided to make the lamp to me, and according to my needs.

The basic idea is very well known and discussed on the internet and relies on the use of energy saving lamps, which in the end are nothing more than neon wrapped.

The fact that do not produce much heat is a great advantage and allows us to use these lamps in many different ways.

super economic My idea comes from the materials that you see below:

to be more precise it is:

• a cardboard box (it is a box of bolts)


• a cardboard tube


• paper Silver Kitchen


• glue


• cord into an electrical outlet


• males


• attacks E27 bulbs

said that we start working immediately!

First, cut the cardboard tube into pieces the same length as the width of the box, after which each one of these tubes we cut through to form a half circle (a half-pipe: P).

After that paint the inside of the half-pipe with a lot of white glue thinned 50% with water and applied over the foil so that it can not wrinkle.

I repeated this process until achieving 3 / 2 tubes, which I then glued inside the box "with plenty of glue" (as would the conductor ArtAttack).

Once dried, I brushed the whole box inside or outside (except for those parts with aluminum foil) of the mixture first prepared based glue and water, which has the dual function of stiffening a little cardboard and serve as waterproofing.

Without this, the ceiling is complete, all that remains is to make a hole on one side to prepare for the E27 and finish the edges as desired.
As I finish I chose to use sheet aluminum I had available, but you could use anything, even the insignia of wood.

To fix the choice is yours, personally I did at the beginning of the L that support, but then I decided to hook it with the transparent nylon thread (fishing line 0.45) by the holes passing on the box on the shelf and the shelf where I got room for my acquarietto.

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6 days since

Also this evening, as it happens one night and no, I changed my Iwagumi 1l of water.
I also reloaded the CO2 by changing the amount slightly (indeed increasing only a little more baking soda, and from that I seemed to understand that serving as a stabilizer, in order to have a more stable response over the week).

Yesterday I also added 2 small planting Cryptocoryne spiralis right rear corner of the tank, although in terms of layout has not changed much since they are rather hidden by the rocks, even though growth may complete the furnishings.

For photos in the next post! :)

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And here's the picture today! My

My bonsai dall'allestimento in 3 days! :)

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Iwagumi (first steps of preparation)

With this post I want to kick off the description of my small aquarium, describing the material, the phases of construction and maintenance.

The first thing to clarify is that bath, lighting, CO2 and some other little things are do-it-yourself and materials to low-cost (or even discarded).

Bath:

Dimensions: 30x20x15

Completely self made by me from a thermal glass of a window: p

(glass 4_12_4 private room and cut to size, perhaps in a Next post I'll show you the phases of construction)

As you will see from the picture the tank has the highest posterior wall as in the future will install the filter with Eden501 the tube to rain so that it is raised above the bowl.

Filtering:

For now, the filtering system comprises a small backpack filled with foam filter media and a bit of wool, which can filter up to 300l / h.

Lighting:

The suspended ceiling you see in the picture is self made (the project is invented by me) following the guidelines of 'ART-ATTACK: p

Without going into details (again we would have to make a nice post with pictures of the building, which I have ready), the light source is an energy-saving lamp 20W 6500K turned on 8 hours a day.

CO2

traditional method (for now) or that in yeast (fermentation)

Dose: 45ml sugar, 1 / 6 loaf of yeast, 1 teaspoon baking soda all in a glass of warm water. (To do all proportionate to the aquarium, rather than using the classic 1/2l bottle I used a 0.25).
all connected with check valve and diffuser in glass 24H/24.

Equipment:

Fund: ADA Amazonia AquaSoil

Layout: Some rocks cut from a rock from IALU purchased from a nursery.

Background: black cardboard

Plants Glossostigma

Fertilization: (we would have to say a few words more but for now take it like that ...) 1ml ADA Bringht K is 1 day and no one, including a few weeks and add ADA ECA Step1.

The water is changed: since the first days of life you exchange 2l 1 day and no one

For now I think everything will post photos as the tank will start to evolve.

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What is a Iwagumi

start by saying that I am a novice aquarium and I approached this subject from one year only.

During this time I got to be interested in different types of setting up fish tanks, but what impressed me most was just the preparation Iwagumi.

The key feature of this type of aquarium is the presence of only rocks, wood or other decorative effects, whose arrangement is reminiscent of the Japanese Zen gardens.
rocks, preferably all of the same type and in odd numbers may be ordered in many ways, the important thing is that the landscape appears as natural as possible. In some aquariums, they are arranged following the principles of the golden section, but this is not really necessary.

With regard to the flora of our Iwagumi, are generally used in very small plants that form dense meadow, such as Glossostigma Hemianthus or calluses.

T. Adam, the famous founder of the ADA brand, probably the leading brand in natural products for aquariums, has laid down some guidelines for the construction of a natural aquarium.
These "tips", below, in my opinion are certainly useful, but should not become the commandments, as the realization a layout, as well as technique should also have a good dose of imagination, which allows us to exclaim, looking at our aquarium set up, "this is my tank!"

1. Planting in odd number groups
2. Plants with leaves slender / thin are better off in the center-back of the tank, while a large leaf angles are better
3. Do not put plants in the middle because red and darken the composition encumbers
4. Plants with dark green leaves (green or red) are better off behind the rear corners, but those with light leaves are better off in the middle
5. Place plants and decorations (wood and stone) to create contrast between the poorly lit areas and brightly lit
6. The sand-colored creates a good contrast with the plants
7. If you use rocks, it is better to use variable cutting, mixing rock with large rocks as small in nature
8. The edges of the rocks is best if they are rounded
9. Hide your intentions with the rocks. Let in some way be obscured by plants, also completely!
10. Decoration with areas of sand devoid of plants at the front are excellent alternatives to the traditional approach "Nature Aquarium", which includes the entire area covered by plants in the front carpet.
11. A pleasant alternative is an attractive layout salitina the central area of \u200b\u200bthe tank to the two angles rear.

Technique:
1. Use cotton thread to attach the moss to wood and lava rocks
2. The rocks with moss, the compositions are exceptional for a corner (?), Facilitating the crossing of sandy areas with those planted
3. Use with wood or large stones with moss moss as objects from the background to blend with the shadows lit areas (?)
4. Anubias attached directly on the rocks with moss with plastic wire and cut off almost all the roots. This will give you "rock Anubias"
5. A "Anubias rock" can be placed directly on the sand and moved anywhere you want. Initially, place it slightly forward, so as to hide the roots at a later time will start to grow upwards towards the light.
6. Plant Cryptocoryne only where there is a sufficiently high substrate
7. Place stem plants so that they have the same length for each group but degrading heights from top to bottom between each group as they descend towards the middle or the front area of \u200b\u200bthe tank.
8. Plant the stems in groups of two or three together.
9. A new tank should not be pruned for the first 3 months.
10. At the first pruning, leave the stem plants grow to the surface, then potatele half their length.
11. Anubias and mosses are beautiful foreground plants and do not require pruning
12. Place pipes and electric cables along the side of the tank, because it is less visible than on the long side rear (because of the mirror on both sides).
13. To create a substrate with different materials (eg sand and soil) is recommended to use a card that would separate during filling. After having leveled off the area with the different substrates at the points where they are in contact with the card, it can be gently removed.
14. The evenness of the substrate to degrade from the rear to the front is more effective if you use a wood in the area means face to block any "landslide" to the front. Even the rocks with moss constitute an effective barrier for this purpose.
15. If you use two separate and different substrates (eg sand and soil), wood and rocks can be placed in the lines of demarcation between the two in order to cover the points of separation.
16. A light from the lower back of the tank creates a spectacular light and the ripples from a corner below, exalting (I think for photography)
17. For simple landscapes, use bowls with moss around large rocks central
18. An intricate set of branches completely covered with moss creates a beautiful effect when fills the tank (?). It will have a compact and uniform and, if done correctly, can create an effect to go from front to rear area, preferably the front part of the area median and salt into the corners.