My bonsai dall'allestimento in 3 days! :)
Thursday, April 24, 2008
2010 Graduation Centerpiece
Iwagumi (first steps of preparation)
With this post I want to kick off the description of my small aquarium, describing the material, the phases of construction and maintenance.
The first thing to clarify is that bath, lighting, CO2 and some other little things are do-it-yourself and materials to low-cost (or even discarded).
Bath:
Dimensions: 30x20x15
Completely self made by me from a thermal glass of a window: p
(glass 4_12_4 private room and cut to size, perhaps in a Next post I'll show you the phases of construction)
As you will see from the picture the tank has the highest posterior wall as in the future will install the filter with Eden501 the tube to rain so that it is raised above the bowl.
Filtering:
For now, the filtering system comprises a small backpack filled with foam filter media and a bit of wool, which can filter up to 300l / h.
Lighting:
The suspended ceiling you see in the picture is self made (the project is invented by me) following the guidelines of 'ART-ATTACK: p
Without going into details (again we would have to make a nice post with pictures of the building, which I have ready), the light source is an energy-saving lamp 20W 6500K turned on 8 hours a day.
CO2
traditional method (for now) or that in yeast (fermentation)
Dose: 45ml sugar, 1 / 6 loaf of yeast, 1 teaspoon baking soda all in a glass of warm water. (To do all proportionate to the aquarium, rather than using the classic 1/2l bottle I used a 0.25).
all connected with check valve and diffuser in glass 24H/24.
all connected with check valve and diffuser in glass 24H/24.
Equipment:
Fund: ADA Amazonia AquaSoil
Layout: Some rocks cut from a rock from IALU purchased from a nursery.
Background: black cardboard
Plants Glossostigma
Fertilization: (we would have to say a few words more but for now take it like that ...) 1ml ADA Bringht K is 1 day and no one, including a few weeks and add ADA ECA Step1.
The water is changed: since the first days of life you exchange 2l 1 day and no one
For now I think everything will post photos as the tank will start to evolve.
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
How To Make Bios Dongle
What is a Iwagumi
start by saying that I am a novice aquarium and I approached this subject from one year only.
During this time I got to be interested in different types of setting up fish tanks, but what impressed me most was just the preparation Iwagumi.
During this time I got to be interested in different types of setting up fish tanks, but what impressed me most was just the preparation Iwagumi.
The key feature of this type of aquarium is the presence of only rocks, wood or other decorative effects, whose arrangement is reminiscent of the Japanese Zen gardens.
rocks, preferably all of the same type and in odd numbers may be ordered in many ways, the important thing is that the landscape appears as natural as possible. In some aquariums, they are arranged following the principles of the golden section, but this is not really necessary.
With regard to the flora of our Iwagumi, are generally used in very small plants that form dense meadow, such as Glossostigma Hemianthus or calluses.
T. Adam, the famous founder of the ADA brand, probably the leading brand in natural products for aquariums, has laid down some guidelines for the construction of a natural aquarium.
These "tips", below, in my opinion are certainly useful, but should not become the commandments, as the realization a layout, as well as technique should also have a good dose of imagination, which allows us to exclaim, looking at our aquarium set up, "this is my tank!"
1. Planting in odd number groups
2. Plants with leaves slender / thin are better off in the center-back of the tank, while a large leaf angles are better
3. Do not put plants in the middle because red and darken the composition encumbers
4. Plants with dark green leaves (green or red) are better off behind the rear corners, but those with light leaves are better off in the middle
5. Place plants and decorations (wood and stone) to create contrast between the poorly lit areas and brightly lit
6. The sand-colored creates a good contrast with the plants
7. If you use rocks, it is better to use variable cutting, mixing rock with large rocks as small in nature
8. The edges of the rocks is best if they are rounded
9. Hide your intentions with the rocks. Let in some way be obscured by plants, also completely!
10. Decoration with areas of sand devoid of plants at the front are excellent alternatives to the traditional approach "Nature Aquarium", which includes the entire area covered by plants in the front carpet.
11. A pleasant alternative is an attractive layout salitina the central area of \u200b\u200bthe tank to the two angles rear.
Technique:
1. Use cotton thread to attach the moss to wood and lava rocks
2. The rocks with moss, the compositions are exceptional for a corner (?), Facilitating the crossing of sandy areas with those planted
3. Use with wood or large stones with moss moss as objects from the background to blend with the shadows lit areas (?)
4. Anubias attached directly on the rocks with moss with plastic wire and cut off almost all the roots. This will give you "rock Anubias"
5. A "Anubias rock" can be placed directly on the sand and moved anywhere you want. Initially, place it slightly forward, so as to hide the roots at a later time will start to grow upwards towards the light.
6. Plant Cryptocoryne only where there is a sufficiently high substrate
7. Place stem plants so that they have the same length for each group but degrading heights from top to bottom between each group as they descend towards the middle or the front area of \u200b\u200bthe tank.
8. Plant the stems in groups of two or three together.
9. A new tank should not be pruned for the first 3 months.
10. At the first pruning, leave the stem plants grow to the surface, then potatele half their length.
11. Anubias and mosses are beautiful foreground plants and do not require pruning
12. Place pipes and electric cables along the side of the tank, because it is less visible than on the long side rear (because of the mirror on both sides).
13. To create a substrate with different materials (eg sand and soil) is recommended to use a card that would separate during filling. After having leveled off the area with the different substrates at the points where they are in contact with the card, it can be gently removed.
14. The evenness of the substrate to degrade from the rear to the front is more effective if you use a wood in the area means face to block any "landslide" to the front. Even the rocks with moss constitute an effective barrier for this purpose.
15. If you use two separate and different substrates (eg sand and soil), wood and rocks can be placed in the lines of demarcation between the two in order to cover the points of separation.
16. A light from the lower back of the tank creates a spectacular light and the ripples from a corner below, exalting (I think for photography)
17. For simple landscapes, use bowls with moss around large rocks central
18. An intricate set of branches completely covered with moss creates a beautiful effect when fills the tank (?). It will have a compact and uniform and, if done correctly, can create an effect to go from front to rear area, preferably the front part of the area median and salt into the corners.
rocks, preferably all of the same type and in odd numbers may be ordered in many ways, the important thing is that the landscape appears as natural as possible. In some aquariums, they are arranged following the principles of the golden section, but this is not really necessary.
With regard to the flora of our Iwagumi, are generally used in very small plants that form dense meadow, such as Glossostigma Hemianthus or calluses.
T. Adam, the famous founder of the ADA brand, probably the leading brand in natural products for aquariums, has laid down some guidelines for the construction of a natural aquarium.
These "tips", below, in my opinion are certainly useful, but should not become the commandments, as the realization a layout, as well as technique should also have a good dose of imagination, which allows us to exclaim, looking at our aquarium set up, "this is my tank!"
1. Planting in odd number groups
2. Plants with leaves slender / thin are better off in the center-back of the tank, while a large leaf angles are better
3. Do not put plants in the middle because red and darken the composition encumbers
4. Plants with dark green leaves (green or red) are better off behind the rear corners, but those with light leaves are better off in the middle
5. Place plants and decorations (wood and stone) to create contrast between the poorly lit areas and brightly lit
6. The sand-colored creates a good contrast with the plants
7. If you use rocks, it is better to use variable cutting, mixing rock with large rocks as small in nature
8. The edges of the rocks is best if they are rounded
9. Hide your intentions with the rocks. Let in some way be obscured by plants, also completely!
10. Decoration with areas of sand devoid of plants at the front are excellent alternatives to the traditional approach "Nature Aquarium", which includes the entire area covered by plants in the front carpet.
11. A pleasant alternative is an attractive layout salitina the central area of \u200b\u200bthe tank to the two angles rear.
Technique:
1. Use cotton thread to attach the moss to wood and lava rocks
2. The rocks with moss, the compositions are exceptional for a corner (?), Facilitating the crossing of sandy areas with those planted
3. Use with wood or large stones with moss moss as objects from the background to blend with the shadows lit areas (?)
4. Anubias attached directly on the rocks with moss with plastic wire and cut off almost all the roots. This will give you "rock Anubias"
5. A "Anubias rock" can be placed directly on the sand and moved anywhere you want. Initially, place it slightly forward, so as to hide the roots at a later time will start to grow upwards towards the light.
6. Plant Cryptocoryne only where there is a sufficiently high substrate
7. Place stem plants so that they have the same length for each group but degrading heights from top to bottom between each group as they descend towards the middle or the front area of \u200b\u200bthe tank.
8. Plant the stems in groups of two or three together.
9. A new tank should not be pruned for the first 3 months.
10. At the first pruning, leave the stem plants grow to the surface, then potatele half their length.
11. Anubias and mosses are beautiful foreground plants and do not require pruning
12. Place pipes and electric cables along the side of the tank, because it is less visible than on the long side rear (because of the mirror on both sides).
13. To create a substrate with different materials (eg sand and soil) is recommended to use a card that would separate during filling. After having leveled off the area with the different substrates at the points where they are in contact with the card, it can be gently removed.
14. The evenness of the substrate to degrade from the rear to the front is more effective if you use a wood in the area means face to block any "landslide" to the front. Even the rocks with moss constitute an effective barrier for this purpose.
15. If you use two separate and different substrates (eg sand and soil), wood and rocks can be placed in the lines of demarcation between the two in order to cover the points of separation.
16. A light from the lower back of the tank creates a spectacular light and the ripples from a corner below, exalting (I think for photography)
17. For simple landscapes, use bowls with moss around large rocks central
18. An intricate set of branches completely covered with moss creates a beautiful effect when fills the tank (?). It will have a compact and uniform and, if done correctly, can create an effect to go from front to rear area, preferably the front part of the area median and salt into the corners.
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